one of the key elements in raising your puppy is to remember to praise exuberantly. never strike a young puppy consistency facilitates training, harshness erodes your dog's confidence praise ... and remember to be happy and excited in your praise don't allow biting ... remember that what is cute as a puppy is often disliked in adults do not correct your puppy or dog after the fact take your puppy different places to meet people or other dogs ... it helps the puppy socialize praise ... and remember to be happy and excited in your praise establish communication by training your puppy dogs and puppies need to know they are in a dominance hierarchy and that you are Alpha dog and they are below everyone in the family. Dominance is achieved through leadership not harshness praise ... and remember to be happy and excited in your praise
Age to Separate From the Litter:
The information provided herein is the opinion of the writer based on several years of observation and close interaction with the litters. Having puppies born and raised in the living room provides the opportunity for close observation of interaction between puppies and surroundings, puppies and mom, puppies with litter mates, puppies and other dogs in our home. Since this is a companion breed, we do not send our puppies to their new families before they are twelve weeks of age nor do we recommend sending them before ten weeks for the following reasons unless they are going to very experienced people or another breeder:
Birth to Four Weeks:
puppies are cared for by mom and nurse on demand. Their eyes and ears are closed. puppies are handled by the breeder to check that all are okay and thriving. Handling the puppies is also part of the socialization at this stage, the newborns imprint the scent of the breeder and other family members even at this early stage somewhere around day 14 - 17 the newborn puppy's eyes open the ears do not begin to open for several days after the eyes have opened even at this stage we begin playing with their feet and trimming nails as development continues the puppies begin testing their legs and even begin to emit little "barks" their vision and hearing have improved mom more at ease to leave the puppies for short periods Four to Six Weeks:
at this stage the puppies begin to venture from their "den" and explore their surroundings. They are never very far from mom and the interaction is with mom and litter mates the puppies are handled often through all the developmental stages to ensure proper socialization. Hugging, stroking, kissing and rocking are a must around our house! legs start out wobbly and the little tails are used like a rudder to help them navigate their surroundings but by the time six weeks have elapsed, they have pretty good footing under them by this time they usually have ventured onto the linoleum and discovered that they usually flattened out the first time or two but curiosity wins and they motor all over the main floor by the six week stage we begin putting the puppies on their backs and giving tummy rubs so they know this is a good thing and part of cuddling it is at this stage that they begin to cut their baby teeth and like to chew on a whole lot of things. If you notice, shoes and anything else laying around for them becomes fair game to chew on. we have already begun to put small toys like a soft little ball and a chew rope into their crate to encourage good play habits and to give them something to chew on and we massage their gums so they are used to fingers in their mouths. at 5 - 5 1/2 weeks we begin to feed soft foods starting out with a soup mixture and then building into something thicker to get their pallets and stomachs used to solid food we also begin the crate training and house training at this time. The puppies are taken outside on regular intervals and told to "go park" and "go business" as well as other basic commands. They don't understand what we are wanting but saying the commands in conjunction with them performing the action and then rewarding with tons of verbal praise, hugs and kisses teaches them they have done something pretty awesome!
Six to Eight Weeks:
the puppies spend more time interacting with each other and there is now more wrestling and mouthing going on. The mouthing is how they get to know each other mom is still the focal point of their lives but they do venture away from her for short periods by this time they maneuver about the house easily and we now begin to teach them how to use the ramps to come into the house. Showing them two or three times is usually sufficient and pretty soon they do their "job" and head back into the house many of the teeth have now come through and at this stage they begin to learn that mouthing can sometimes be quite painful we find that our toes, fingers, shoes or socks are fair game so now is the time to let puppy know that it hurts. A very sharp exclamation of "ouch!" when the puppy bites usually makes them stop what they are doing and when it does not begin again immediately praising the good behavior reinforces that biting is unacceptable food has become more solid by the eight week mark as they have more teeth to chew with. You must keep in mind that dogs do not chew with their front teeth so unless the molars are through they only gulp down the solid food ... not crunch on it for a bit. by the time the puppies are 8 weeks old they have learned to use the ramps to go outside on their own as well as come back in the house. We no longer carry them out to go potty but begin to herd them outside saying "outside, outside" and "in house, in house" to get them to come back indoors in nice weather it is good for them to play outside and experience different textures on their feet mom has begun to wean the babies
Eight to Ten Weeks:
eight weeks is generally the period for the puppy's first of several fear stages, so great care must be taken not to frighten the puppy and positive reinforcement is extremely important puppies begin to develop more independence from mom and spend more time interacting with their litter mates because they are raised in our living room the noise of the TV, vacuum cleaner, radio and people have become a daily routine for them it is time for their first visit with the vet and first vaccinations we take the puppies for occasional rides and let our friends and neighbors borrow them for short periods of time so they get used to being moved from one environment to another mom continues to wean the babies and we assist by separating her from the litter for a few hours each day. One day we will keep mom out for the morning and she will spend the afternoon with the litter and the next it will be the afternoon she has a break, etc. the puppies begin interaction with the adults and are exhibiting play behavior they have been observing in the adults such as running and chasing each other, grabbing tails and tumbling about they really enjoy playing with toys both amongst each other and with humans they have begun to recognize their names and will often come when called house training is progressing well and the puppies are learning that to "go park" or "go business" is rewarded with being scooped up in our arms and getting kisses and hugs and being told how good they are lots of the teeth are in and solid food is the preferred choice now is the time to continue working on biting and chewing especially on their humans we move the babies from the living room crates at night and put them in our bedroom and give mom "every other night off" in order to prepare the puppies for the next stage
Ten to Twelve Weeks:
at this stage, the puppies begin to assert their independence from mom, interact still with their litter mates but have enough confidence to begin interaction with the rest of the dogs in our home by joining in play sessions. What they have learned in observation of the adults now becomes part of their daily play routines. mom no longer spends extended periods with the litter although they will attempt to suckle from time to time. Usually mom will oblige however, she has dried up and no longer can provide milk. at this stage, we separate the puppies into their individual crates at night and they sleep in our bedroom. as a puppy cries to go out during the night we take only that puppy out. By the time they leave to join their new families, they sleep through the night. puppies respond quickly to their call names and come running after "going potty" to be picked up and told how good they are. we borrow the puppies out for more extended periods of time, again to help them in the transition of leaving our home. Continued moving in and out of our familiar environment lessens the stress of flights, etc. to join their new families. although it would appear that when the puppies leave at twelve weeks, the transition is complete BUT, on the contrary, it is only beginning. we like to keep in touch to see how our puppies are developing, are available for assistance and occasional baby-sitting or vacation sitting.
This is our philosophy in keeping puppies until they are twelve weeks of age. At the onset, we decided to make the experience for our families as pleasant as possible and during this time period, we get to know our families even better ... many have come to visit us and spend time with their "kids" and some have even spent a few days in our home. For families picking up their puppies, we hold a grooming clinic and they do the brushing, bathing, teeth, eyes and ears as well as clipping nails before leaving. In all of this, it is important to remember that you are Alpha Dog and if you are not above your dog/puppy, you are beneath it! You teach your puppy with positive reinforcement not punishment and negativity keeping in mind that behavior you encourage in your growing puppy may not be so cute in an adult dog! PRAISE exuberantly and remember to be consistent ... everyone in the family should use the same commands so as not to confuse the puppy.
Puppy Proofing Your Home:
Toxic Houseplants that give rashes after contact with the skin or mouth: Chrysanthemum, Pot mum, Poinsettia, Weeping Fig, Creeping Fig, Spider Mum Toxic Plants that are irritating and can cause the mouth to swell, tongue pain and sore lips: Arrowhead Vine, Boston Ivy, Colodium, Drunk Cane, Emerald Duke, Philodrendum (Split leaf, Saddle leaf), Marble Queen, Majesty, Neththytis ivy, Pathos, Red Princess Toxic Plants that may contain a vide variety of poisons. Most cause vomiting, abdominal pain, cramps; some cause tremors, heart and respiratory and/or kidney problems which are difficult for owners to interpret: Amaryllis, Asparagus Fern, Azalea, Bird of Paradise, Creeping Charlie, Crown of Thorns, Elephant Ears, Glocal Ivy, Heart Ivy, Ivy, Jerusaleum Cherry, Needlepoint Ivy, Pot Mum, Ripple Ivy, Spider Mum, Sprangeri Fern, Umbrella Plant Outdoor Plants that produce vomiting and diarrhea in some cases: Delphinium, Daffodil, Castor Bean, Indian Turnip, Skunk Cabbage, Poke Weed, Bittersweet, Ground Cherry, Fox Glove, Larkspur, Indian Tobacco, Wisteria, Soap Berry Trees and Shrubs which are poisonous and may produce vomiting, abdominal pain and diarrhea: Horse Chestnut, Buckeye, Rain Tree, Monkey Pod, American Yew, English Yew, Western Yew, English Holly, Privet, Mock Orange, Black Locust, Bird of Paradise bush, Apricot, Almond, Peach Cherry, Wild Cherry, Japanese Plum Outdoor Plants with varied toxic effect: Rhubarb, Buttercup, Moon seed, Spinach, Nightshade, May Apple, sunburned Potatoes Poison Hemlock, tomato Vine, Jimson Weed, Mescal Bean, Loco Weed, Pig Weed, Angel's Trumpet, Lupine, Water Hemlock, Jasmine, Dologeton, Mushrooms, Matrimony Vine Hallucinogens: Marijuana, Periwinkle, Morning Glory, Peyote, Nutmeg, Loco Weed Convulsions: China Berry, Nux vomica, Coriaria, Moonweed
When setting out to puppy-proof your home, get down on your hands and knees (even lower) and view each area from the puppy's vantage point. Puppies are small and more active than babies ... they also have sharp teeth and claws. Consider what looks enticing, what is breakable and what is sharp. Electrical cords hold a special fascination for puppies and remember ... a puppy has an absolute right to chew what they can get at when not being supervised. If you are unable to supervise your puppy, then put it in an environment it can't destroy ... a crate is an excellent solution. Teach your puppy what is and isn't chewable. Electrical Cords: A chewed cord can cause burns or electrocution. Check all cords for wear; keep exposed cords as short as possible. Run them under furniture and out of reach ... get them off the floor Plants: Many plants are toxic causing reactions ranging from upset tummies to vomiting, rashes or even convulsions and even death. Teach your puppy not to chew plants and sticks in the garden. Below is a listing of plants that could be harmful to your puppy. Household Chemicals: The following items should be stored out of your puppy's reach and keep in mind that your puppy just may be able to open lower cupboards. Pesticides, warfarin, insecticides, detergent, bleach, disinfectant, moth balls, cleaning fluid, toothpaste and soap. Antifreeze: Clean up even the smallest spill. Antifreeze has a sweet taste that draws dogs like "bees to honey" but is a deadly poison. Should your puppy or dog ingest antifreeze rush them immediately to your veterinarian and if it has already started into convulsions .... get out the whiskey bottle or any other alcohol and get some into your pet ... the raw alcohol breaks down the antifreeze but still get your dog to a vet! Garbage: Store your garbage in a lidded container and if you keep it under the sink .. make sure the cupboard doors cannot be opened by your puppy. Dental Floss: Dispose of dental floss thoroughly as the internal damage it can cause is often fatal. Remember, waste baskets are prime targets for curious puppies and dogs. Balls: Beloved play toys of dogs and are good toys only if they are big enough not to go down your dog's throat. A dog catching a thrown ball is particularly at risk as the ball can go down the dog's throat and jam, suffocating the dog.
Supplies for Your Puppy:
General Clutter: Leaving children's toys, CD's, books, pens, magazines, shoes, clothing (especially underwear and sock) provides great targets for your puppy. If your puppy hasn't taught you by now to put things up out of harm's way ... nothing will. You have nobody to blame but yourself when things get wrecked so before you scold your puppy ... take yourself into the next room and give yourself a quick smack on the wrist! Give your puppy access to the house one room at a time and only as he/she can be trusted. Even a one-year old may not be responsible enough to have access to the whole house. Keep the crate where the family activity is so if the puppy needs a "time-out", this can be accomplished without the puppy feeling left out. Make sure your yard is equally puppy-proofed .... no gaps in the fence for them to slide on through or under, dead bolts on the gates; if you have a pool it should be separately fenced and access closed off so as not to be tempting to puppies and young children.
This may help you produce that special puppy How to Create a Super Dog
